THE FEAST OF OUR LADY OF MOUNT CARMEL

July 16, 2025

BASILICA OF CARMINE MAGGIORE

Piazza Mercato – NAPLES

by Luciano Troiano

“A Maronna t’accumpagna” (May Our Lady go with you). It is one of the most beautiful, ancient, sweet, and widely used blessings in Naples, offered to those setting off on a journey. The devotion to the Mother of Jesus runs deep in the Neapolitan soul. A sign of this is the large crowd that gathers every Wednesday at the Basilica of the Carmine in Piazza Mercato, also celebrated in the lovely poem by Ernesto Murolo, “O miercurì d’ ‘a Madonna o Carmene”, where he describes “a crowd of weary and afflicted people who turn to the sweet Mother, not knowing who else to appeal to but Her,” as also recalled in the Supplica of Bartolo Longo.

The Church of the Carmine is located in one of the city’s most traditional and popular neighborhoods. According to tradition, some monks fleeing Saracen persecution in the Holy Land brought with them an image of the Madonna Glykophilousa, which they had venerated on Mount Carmel. They settled in a small chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas, where they placed the image in a spot called “la grotticella” (the little grotto).

The first historical record of the presence of the Carmelites in Naples dates back to 1268, when chroniclers of the time described the execution of Conradin of Swabia in the square in front of the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine.

In reality, the icon of the Brown Madonna is of the type known as "of tenderness", in which the faces of the Mother and Child are shown touching in an expression of gentle intimacy, according to the Byzantine model of the Madonna Glykophilousa.

In the basilica rests Conradin of Swabia, whose body during World War II was the object of a morbid search by the German Nazis. In the past, before the Bourbon dynasty ordered its removal, Masaniello also rested in the temple.

The Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel also houses the miracle of the crucifix, which is tied to the struggle in the 15th century between the Angevins and the Aragonese for the control of Naples. René of Anjou had placed his artillery on the Carmine bell tower, transforming it into a real fortress, when Alfonso V of Aragon laid siege to the city, setting camp on the banks of the Sebeto River.

On October 17, 1439, the infant Peter of Aragon fired off a large bombard called the Messinese; its massive shot, still kept in the church crypt, shattered the apse of the church and headed straight for the head of the crucifix, which to avoid the blow lowered its head to the right shoulder without breaking. The following day, while Peter once again ordered the Messinese to fire, a shot from the bell tower—from a bombard called “the Mad” (la Pazza)—severed its head. King Alfonso lifted the siege, but when on June 2, 1442, he triumphantly entered the city, his first thought was to go to the Carmine to venerate the crucifix and, to atone for his late brother’s insane act, had a lavish tabernacle built.

In the year 1500, on the occasion of the Jubilee Year, the confraternity of the Tanners brought in procession the crucifix and the Brown Madonna to Rome. Numerous miracles occurred during the pilgrimage: the image remained for three days in St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, during which time, as word of its miracles spread in Rome, the faithful were drawn to it, so much so that Pope Alexander VI, fearing the fervor of the faithful might diminish towards the other basilicas, ordered its return to Naples. The Madonna icon was moved to the main altar and subsequently placed in a marble niche with figures of prophets, attributed to the Malvito brothers, who worked in Naples between 1498 and 1524.

After such astonishing events, Frederick of Aragon decreed that on June 24, a Wednesday, all the sick of the kingdom should go to the Carmine to implore the longed-for healing. Indeed, on the appointed day, in the presence of royalty and the people, during the consecration, a ray of vivid light shone simultaneously on the Brown Madonna’s icon and over the sick, who were instantly healed or saw their ailments eased. From then on, Wednesday was chosen as the day entirely dedicated to the Brown Madonna, and even today, after 500 years, numerous faithful come on pilgrimage from all over the city and province to place a flower, a prayer, or a token of gratitude at the feet of Mamma d’o Carmene.

The bell tower of the church is first mentioned in 1439 during the war between the Angevins and Aragonese. Repeatedly damaged and rebuilt, it took on its current appearance in the first half of the 17th century. In March 1762 it was struck by lightning. The first three levels are built in Ionic, Doric and Corinthian styles, and are the work of architect Giovan Giacomo Di Conforto. This portion, begun in 1615 with a donation of 150 ducats, was completed in 1620. In 1622 the first octagonal level was raised, beneath whose cornice is an inscription; in 1627 the second octagonal level was completed, and in 1631 the Dominican friar Giuseppe Nuvolo built the majolica‑tiled spire. At the top sits the cross upon a copper globe 110 cm in diameter. The entire structure stands 75 m tall. Its fame, in addition to its beauty, is due to the famous “burned bell tower,” which symbolizes the Christian victory over the Saracens.

The festival’s program this year is especially rich both from a civic and religious standpoint. Piazza Mercato will be animated with stalls, food points, and on Tuesday, July 15, at 9 pm there will be a concert by the Raffaele Converso Sextet, followed by the traditional, eagerly awaited and widely attended burning of the bell tower.

Sources:

Comune di Napoli.it
Chiesa di Napoli.it
Basilica Maggiore del Carmine di Napoli
The popular devotion in Naples by Giulio Mendozza
Naples hidden and unknown by Maurizio Ponticello
A day with Saint Gennaro by Maurizio Ponticello
Maronna d’ ‘o Carmene by Lucio Maria Zappatore O. Carm.

Photo credits:

Sergio Valentino
Maurizio Rea
Luca Aless

How to get to Piazza Mercato – Naples